How to Read a Knitting Chart: A Beginner’s Guide

Knitting charts are like a visual map of your work. Instead of reading long rows of text, a chart allows you to see the “picture” of your stitch pattern as you create it. For my Alphabet, Animals and Transport blocks, mastering the chart is the key to success!

1. The Anatomy of a Chart

A knitting chart is a grid where each small square represents one stitch.

• The Grid: Think of this as your knitted fabric.
• The Rows: Usually numbered up the side.
• The Stitches: Usually numbered along the bottom.

2. The Golden Rule: Read from the Bottom Up

Just like you knit from the bottom of a project toward the top, you always read a knitting chart starting at Row 1 at the bottom. You then move upward to Row 2, Row 3, and so on.

3. Direction Matters (Flat vs. Circular)

Since my blocks are knitted flat (back and forth), the direction you read the chart changes every row:

• Right-Side Rows (Odd numbers: 1, 3, 5…): Read from Right to Left. This is the side in which your design will be visible.
• Wrong-Side Rows (Even numbers: 2, 4, 6…): Read from Left to Right.

4. Decoding the Symbols

To make my patterns as easy to read as possible—especially if you are following along on a tablet or prefer high-contrast visuals—I use a ‘Block Colour’ system for my knit-and-purl patterns, rather than small symbols.

• ⬜ Empty Square: Knit on the Right Side (RS), Purl on the Wrong Side (WS).
• ⬛ Dark Grey or Black Square: Purl on the Right Side (RS), Knit on the Wrong Side(WS).
• 🟥 Red frame: This is a signal to repeat the enclosed pattern as many times as instructed.

By combining these, the “purl” bumps create rich textures and shapes (like letters, animals or transports) against the smooth knit background.

In my old charts I used a Square with a Dot to symbolise “Purl on the Right Side / Knit on the Wrong Side”. I’m currently editing all of them to make my patterns more accessible for those with Macular Degeneration or general age-related vision changes.

For the more advanced knitting symbols I use on my patterns, check the Oh La Lana! knitting symbols and abbreviations page.

5. Mastering the Pattern Repeat

On this Diamond Padding chart, you’ll see a bold red frame surrounding stitches 1 through 4. This is the heart of your pattern! Instead of looking at a massive grid, you only need to focus on these four stitches.

How to knit it: You work stitches 1 to 4 as shown, and then—just like a ‘loop’ in music—you jump back to stitch 1 and repeat that 4-stitch sequence until you reach the end of your row. The stitches outside the red box (stitches 5, 6, and 7) are only worked once at the very end to ‘balance’ the design and make it look symmetrical.

6. Visualizing the Pattern

The best part about a chart? If the chart looks like a letter “h”, your knitting should look like a letter “h.” If you see a purl symbol in the chart but your knitting looks smooth in that spot, you’ll know immediately that a stitch was missed!

💡 Pro Tip: Going Paperless with an iPad or Tablet

If you prefer to read your patterns on a screen, your iPad can be your best knitting companion. Here is how to keep your place without losing your mind:

Use the “Markup” Tool: If you open the pattern PDF in the Books app or Files, you can use the Apple Pencil (or your finger) to cross out rows as you finish them.

The Highlight Trick: Use the highlighter tool in a bright color to mark exactly which row you are working on. When you finish the row, just move the highlight up!

Screen Lock: Don’t forget to turn off “Auto-Lock” in your settings so your screen doesn’t go dark right as you’re in the middle of a tricky row!

Zoom in if you find it difficult to read. That’s one of the advantages of technology, right?

Why I do not include stitch borders in my charts

Think of the chart as the artwork itself and the border as the frame. By keeping them separate, you have the freedom to choose a ‘frame’ that matches your personal style or the specific dimensions of your project.

I try to make my patterns easy to adapt to my readers’ needs, and I know that the border is the most likely place to introduce changes.

• Need a bigger square? Simply cast on more stitches and work a wider edge.
• Want a different look? Easily swap garter stitch for seed stitch or moss stitch.
• Plan for assembly? Adjust your border width to suit your preferred joining method, such as the Mattress Stitch or Single Crochet Seam.

This approach ensures that if you are mixing and matching different blocks for a single blanket, you can maintain a consistent border across every square, regardless of the complexity of the central chart.

Technical tip: When following the chart, remember that Row 1 of the diagram corresponds to the first row of your design, not necessarily the first row of your knitting. Always complete your chosen bottom border first before moving to the first row of the chart.

Ready for a bigger challenge?

Try your new skills on the Valentine’s Hearts Pattern!